Croatia's national theatre is a yellow neo-baroque building of 1895 by the Viennese studio Fellner & Helmer, inaugurated in the presence of Emperor Franz Joseph. In front stands Ivan Meštrović's 'Well of Life' fountain, a favourite meeting point for Zagreb locals. From October to June it fills with opera, ballet and drama at prices kinder than in Western Europe; booking ahead is wise. Even without a show, the facade rewards a stroll by.







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