City of Zagreb itinerary — 2 days

Zagreb's main market, steps from Ban Jelačić Square and running since 1926 — locals call it 'the belly of the city'. Farmers sell under the famous red parasols in the open-air rows, while the covered hall below is devoted to Adriatic fish. Look for škripavac cheese, homemade bread, honey and rakija; on weekends part of the market turns into an antiques flea market.

A small restaurant in central Zagreb devoted to a single dish: strukli, a baked roll of thin pastry filled with cottage cheese and cream. Dozens of versions appear on the menu, from black sesame and truffle to pumpkin and chocolate. The Dolac market and the Upper Town are steps away, so the stop fits neatly into a walking tour. Portions are generous — order one to share.

The beloved emblem of Zagreb's Upper Town, presiding over St. Mark's Square between the Croatian Parliament and Government offices. This thirteenth-century parish church is internationally famed for its vibrant glazed tiled roof laid in 1880, depicting the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia, and Dalmatia. Its southern Gothic portal features fifteen statues carved by the medieval Parler workshop.

A 13th-century fortified tower at the western edge of the Upper Town. Every day at exactly noon the Grič cannon fires from its top — a tradition running since 1877, when the shot let Zagreb set its clocks. Narrow wooden stairs lead up to the deck, with views across the Lower Town to Ban Jelačić Square. It stands right by the upper station of the funicular, an easy stop on any old-town walk.

Croatia's national theatre is a yellow neo-baroque building of 1895 by the Viennese studio Fellner & Helmer, inaugurated in the presence of Emperor Franz Joseph. In front stands Ivan Meštrović's 'Well of Life' fountain, a favourite meeting point for Zagreb locals. From October to June it fills with opera, ballet and drama at prices kinder than in Western Europe; booking ahead is wise. Even without a show, the facade rewards a stroll by.

The city history museum sits in a former 17th-century Poor Clares convent in the Upper Town. Founded in 1907, it keeps tens of thousands of objects tracing Zagreb from Roman times to the present, including a detailed scale model of the 19th-century city. A compact, well-told museum that pairs naturally with a walk through Gornji grad and a coffee on Strossmayerovo šetalište.

The University of Zagreb's botanical garden, founded in 1889 right in the city centre. Across a few hectares you find an arboretum, a lily pond, an alpinarium and a collection of Croatia's endemic plants. A quiet green island between the railway station and Marulić square; entry is free, though opening hours change with the seasons. Century-old trees keep it shady even in the heat.

The largest square, named after the first Croatian king, is sure to catch your attention. It is located opposite the Central Railway Station, so for those arriving in Zagreb by train, it is the first sight they will see. The magnificent statue of King Tomislav and the Art Pavilion are the square's most notable features. King Tomislav Square is dedicated to the memory of Tomislav, the first king of Croatia. This prominent square is situated next to the Art Pavilion and features an impressive statue of King Tomislav himself. The square is adorned with trees, flower beds, and benches, and is one of the best places in the city to sit and watch what is going on.

Bundek City Park is an expansive recreational green zone in Novi Zagreb, situated just south of the Sava River. Centred around two lakes, it features Big Lake with pebble beaches and summer swimming, and Small Lake, preserved as a protected bird sanctuary. The park is laced with smooth cycling and jogging paths, modern playgrounds, and a floating stage that hosts open-air concerts and Zagreb's famed Floraart flower show.