Graffiti-covered Isola is a hip enclave of tiny streets crammed with a quirky mix of fashion boutiques, organic food shops and thrift stores. Cozy family-run trattorias sit next to cool cafes in leafy courtyards, and dive bars in former warehouses attract bikers, punks and students. Weekend flea markets surround the Renaissance church of Santa Maria alla Fontana, known for its frescoed arcades.




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